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Perfumery
The Druggists General Receipt Book. Beasley 1872
Compiled and Edited by Ivor Hughes.

 


Calypso bulbosa. Oakes

PERFUMERY. DISTILLED WATERS. 
The simple distilled waters (without spirit) used in perfumery are chiefly those of rose, elder, and orange flower, cinnamon, etc. The point�s requisite to be attended to are, that the flowers he fresh, gathered after the sun has risen and the dew exhaled, and .that sufficient water he used to prevent the flowers being burned, hut not much more than is sufficient for this purpose. The quantities usually directed are � Roses 15 lb, water 40 lb: distil 15 lb for single, and the same water with. 15 lb of fresh roses for double rose water.

ORANGE-FLOWERS 12 lb, water 36 lb: distil 24 lb for double orange-flower water; this with an equal quantity of distilled water forms the single. The flowers should not be put into the still till the water nearly boils.

ELDER FLOWER WATER, ACACIA - ELOWER WATER, AND BEAN - FLOWER WATER, are prepared in the same manner as rose-water.

CINNAMON WATER. A gallon should he distilled from 20 oz. of fine cinnamon (bruised) and 2 gallons of water.

STRAWBERRY WATER. Bruised strawberries 4,lb, water a gallon; macerate for 12 hours, and distil 6 pints. The waters prepared without distillation by diffusing the essential oils through water, after mixing them with chalk, magnesia, or silica, or dissolving them in spirit are seldom so proper for perfumery purposes as those distilled from the flowers, etc. Rose-water, made from the Otto (8 drops of Otto, previously mixed with a drachm of precipitated chalk, diffused in a quart of distilled water, and afterwards distilled or simply filtered, is to most persons very agreeable; but that distilled from the flowers should also be kept, as it is by others greatly preferred.

MUSK WATER, VIOLET WATER, JESSAMINE WATER, and some others, are made by mixing the spirituous essences with distilled or pure soft water. A usual proportion is 2 dr. to a pint.

SPIRITUOUS WATERS. The spirit employed in perfumery should be selected with great care; it should be perfectly free from grain-oil and other impurities. It should be 60 over-proof, unless otherwise directed.

SIMPLE SPIRIT OF LAVENDER. Lavender-flower (free from stalks)2 lb,rectified spirit 8 pints, water 16 pints; distil 8 pints.

SMYTH'S DISTILLED ESSENCE OF LAVENDER. Essential oil of English lavender 4 oz., rectified spirit (60� over-proof) 5 pints, rose-water 1 pint: mix, and distil 5 pints for sale.

ESSENCE OF LAVENDER (by mixture). Essential oil of lavender 3� oz., rectified spirit 2 quarts, rose-water � pint, tincture of orris � pint.

LAVENDER WATER. English oil of lavender 4 oz., spirit 3 quarts, rose-water 1 pint: mix and filter. A commoner and cheaper preparation may be made with the French oil.

ODORIFEROUS LAVENDER WATER.
1. Rectified spirit 5 gallons, essential oil of lavender 20 oz., oil of bergamot 5 oz., essence of ambergris � oz. Sometimes 4 oz. of orris-root are digested with the above. � Mr. BRANDE.

2. Oil of lavender, oil of bergamot, of each 3 dr.; Otto of roses and oil of cloves, of each 6 drops; musk 2 gr., true oil of rosemary 1 dr., honey 1 oz., benzoic acid 2 scruples; rectified spirit a pint, distilled water 3 oz.� Dr. PEREIRA.

3. Oil of lavender 2 oz., essence of ambergris 1 oz., eau de Cologne a pint, rectified spirit a quart.

4. Oil of lavender 4 dr.; essence of bergamot, essence of lemon or cedrat, and Otto of roses, of each 20 minims; essence of ambergris 1 dr., rectified spirit 3 pints, orange-flower water 4 oz., rose (or distilled) water 12 oz., burnt alum 20 gr. Agitate frequently, then let it stand in a cool place for some days before filtering.

5. Oil of lavender 3 dr., oil of bergamot 20 drops, neroli 6 drops, otto 6 to 12 drops, essence of cedrat 8 or 10 drops, essence of musk 20 drops, rectified spirit 28 fluid oz., distilled (or orange-flower) water 4 oz.

6. Eau de Lavande aux Millefleurs. Oil of lavender 4 dr.; essence of bergamot, essence of lemon, otto of roses, of each 12 drops; essence of millefleurs 3 dr., essence of ambergris 1 dr., rectified spirit a pint and a half.

Note. The oil of lavender in the above should be the finest English oil; that which first comes over is said to be the most fragrant. It should be kept for 12 months before using, either alone or mixed with an equal quantity of alcohol. Some makers prefer a mixture of old and new oil. The lavender water improves by age.

EAU DE COLOGNE � COLOGNE WATER.
1.
English oil of lavender, oil of bergamot, oil of lemon, oil of neroli, of each 1 oz.; oil of cinnamon � oz.; spirit of rosemary, and spirit of balm (Eau des Carmes), of each 15 oz.; highly rectified spirit 7� pints. Let them stand together for 14 days, then distil in a water-bath.� Dr. GRANVILLE.

2. Oil of bergamot, citron, and lemon, each 3 oz.; oils of rosemary, neroli, and lavender, of each 1� oz.; oil of cinnamon 6 dr., rectified spirit 24 pints; compound spirit of balm (Eau de Carmes, below) 3 pints, spirit of rosemary 2 pints. Mix, and after standing a week, distil 24 pints.� FRENCH PHARMACOPOEIA.

3. Essential oils of bergamot, of lemon, of neroli, of orange peel, and of rosemary, each 12 drops; cardamom seeds a dr.; rectified spirit a pint. It improves by age. � THROMMSDORF.

4. Essence of bergamot 40 minims, essence of lemon 45 minims, oil of rosemary 6, oil of orange 22, neroli 12 minims, highly rectified spirit 6 oz.

5. Alcohol a pint, oil of bergamot, oil of orange-peel, true oil of rosemary, cardamom seeds, of each a drachm; orange-flower water a pint. Mix, and distil a pint by water-bath.� Dr. A.T. THOMSON.

EAU DES CARMES � EAU DE MELISSA. Fresh flowering balm 24 oz.; yellow rind of lemon, cut fine, 4 oz., cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg (bruised), of each 2 oz.; coriander seed (bruised)1 oz; dried angelica root 1 oz., rectified spirit a gallon. Macerate for 4 days, and distil in a water-bath.

AQUEBUSADE WATER.
1.
Sage, angelica, wormwood, savory, sweet fennel, hyssop, balm, sweet basil, rue, thyme, marjoram, rosemary, angelica seed, origanum, red creeping thyme, lavender flowers, of each 10 oz.; sweet flag root 5 oz., rectified spirit 2 gallons, water q. s. Distil 3 gallons.

2. (Simplified.) Balm, rosemary, thyme, calamus root, angelica seeds, lavender flowers, of each 4 oz,; rectified spirit 3 pints, water q. s. Macerate for a day, and distil 4 pints.

QUEEN OF HUNGARY'S WATER. Spirit of Rosemary.
1
. Rosemary tops 2 ft, rectified spirit a gallon, water q. s. Distil carefully 1 gallon.

2. Spirit of rosemary (as No. 1) 4 pints, orange-flower water � pint, essence of neroli 4 drops.

3. Simple spirit of rosemary 3 pints, simple spirit of lavender a pint, rose-water 8 oz.

EAU D'ANGE. Flowering tops of myrtle 16 oz., rectified spirit a gallon; digest, and distil to dryness in a water-bath. Or dissolve � oz. essential oil of myrtle in 3 pints of rectified spirit. Mr. GRAY gives under this name a water without spirit: Water 2 pints, benzoin 2 oz., storax 1 oz., cinnamon 1 dr., cloves 2 dr., calamus a stick, coriander seeds a pinch and then distil.

HONEY WATER. Eau de Miel.
1.
Rectified spirit 8 pints, oil of cloves, oil of lavender, oil of bergamot, of each � oz., musk 15 gr., yellow sanders shavings 4 oz., digest for 8 days, and add 2 pints each of orange-flower and rose waters.

2. Oil of santal 20 drops, tincture of musk 2� oz., essence of bergamot 2� oz., oil of cloves 5 dr., oil of lavender 5 dr., rose-water 2 pints, orange flower water 2 pints, spirit of wine a gallon; mix, and filter.

3. (With 'honey.) White honey 8 oz., coriander seed 8 oz., fresh lemon-peel 1 oz., cloves � oz., nutmeg, benzoin, styrax calamita, of each 1 oz., rose and orange-flower water, of each 4 oz., rectified spirit 3 pints; digest for a few days, and filter. Some recipes add 3 dr. of vanilla, and direct only � oz. of nutmeg, storax, and benzoin.

4. Coriander seeds 7 lb, cloves 12 oz., storax 8 oz., nutmeg 8 oz., fresh lemon-peel 10 oz., calamus root 6 oz., rectified spirit 15 pints; macerate for a month add water q.s. Distil 22 pints, and add to the distilled spirit 5 pints of orange-flower water, 24 drops otto of roses, a dr. of ambergris, and 2 oz. of fine vanilla; macerate for a week, and filter. The dry ingredients to be bruised or cut small.

LISBON WATER. To rectified spirit, 1 gallon, add the essential oils of orange-peel and lemon-peel, of each 3 oz., and of otto of rose � oz.� PIESSE.

EAU DE PORTUGAL. To rectified spirit, 1 gallon, add the following essential oils: of orange-peel 6 oz., of lemon-peel 1 oz., of lemon-grass � oz., of bergamot 1 oz., and of otto of rose � oz.� PIESSE.

EAU D'ELEGANCE. Spirit of Jessamine 2 lb, spirit of styrax 1 lb, spirit of hyacinth 1 lb, spirit of star aniseed 4 oz., tincture of balsam of Tolu 4 oz., tincture of vanilla 2 oz.

EAU BE MARESCHALE. Spirit of wine 1 pint, spirit of Jessamine 1 oz., essence of bergamot � oz., essence of violets 1 oz.

EAU ROMAINE. Spirit of Jessamine 3 quarts, tincture of vanilla 1 quart, spirit of acacia flowers 1 quart, spirit of tuberose a pint, essence of ambergris 2 oz., tincture of benzoin 8 oz.

EAU DE MILLEFLEURS. Rectified spirit 2 pints, balsam of Peru � oz., essence of bergamot 4 oz., oil of cloves � oz,, essence of neroli � dr., essence of musk 1 dr., orange-flower water 2 oz.

EAU SPIRITUEUSE D'HELIOTROPE. Vanilla 3 dr., double orange-flower water 6 oz., rectified spirit a quart; macerate for 3 days, and distil in a water-bath. It may be coloured with cochineal. But the essence d'heliotrope of some perfumers appears, by the colour, not to have been distilled.

EAU D'ISPAHAN. Essential oil of bitter orange-peel 4 oz., oil of rosemary 3 dr., oil of mint 1 dr., oil of cloves 7 scruples, neroli 7 scruples, spirit of wine 14 pints. It is used for the same purposes as Eau de Cologne.

EAU SANS PAREILLE. Essential oil of lemon � oz., of bergamot 2� dr., of cedrat � oz., rectified spirit 6 pints, spirit of rosemary 8 oz.; mix. Some authorities state that it is improved by distillation.

 

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