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-: Kitchen Kemistry and Kosmetics :-
The Beautiful Art
by
Ivor Hughes

Part 1

Beauty is Skin Deep.

  -::-

It is old wisdom, 'A healthy mind in a healthy body.' The condition of health may be seen as a degree of vitality on a simple scale of 1 to 10. Ten being top level. A prime self evident pointer, of where we are at on that scale, is the skin.   

"Harrumph" ! .... said Judge Lord R.U.A. Bad Egg KC VD and Scar  .... " The skin is a convenient sack, of better lasting than plastic material" Here he paused, to allow that to sink into the tough nut of the assembled Hackery of Fleet Street. Whilst waiting for the sound of scribbling to stop, Bad Egg snorted a quick line of Cocaine via a much used US$100 bill.  

As the scribbling died away he continued " So 'Ipso de Facto' the skin is a sack to carry around assorted bones and organ parts. If we wish to keep all those parts in one place instead of scattered around the universe, then we must block all of those beastly leaky holes, that those biology wallahs call 'pores'. 


As the scribbling died down, Bad Egg continued, "We are indeed fortunate that Carnage, Killem and Slaughter International have produced a total range of cosmetics, pesticides, bactericides and hole blockers for Mother and baby. There is not a nation in the world, that is not familiar with their famous slogan, "Would you use on your face, what you use on babies bum"?  

In fact, this great Company, this benefactor of the human race, this epitome of God like aspiration, has a cradle to grave policy. Bad Egg was about to achieve lift off with his flight of oratory, when a discreet cough at his right elbow announced Fotheringay, who promptly lowered his silver salver and deposited the brandy on the goodies table, at the same time proffering the note on the salver. Bad Egg read it, 'Blithering Idiots'! He muttered.  Bad Egg slipped into damage control with well oiled practice. Crumbling an Amphetamine tablet onto the smouldering end of his prime Havana he inhaled like a thirsty elephant sucking water. The end of the Havana flared like a miniature supernova. Then swallowing a double snifter of brandy, he was ready.

Bad Egg stood, and raising his arms, palms out in benediction over the assembled heads of hackery incarnate,  said in Gothic Sepulchre tones, " Esteemed members of the press", Bad Egg paused to let the sniggers die down.  The Board of Carnage, Killem and Slaughter International (hereinafter referred to as CKSI,) after 3 minutes of intense ethical debate sent  Chairman Mor Carnage out to feed the pigeons. This sizzling hot report is direct from the factory farm piggery located at the New York Stock Exchange.  Bad Egg used his arms much in the same way, that one would try to placate a snarling, frothing pack of Rotweilers with bloodshot eyes. Down, down, he said in velvet soothing  tones, I will read the press release, are our pencils ready ? Without waiting for a reply from the assembled hackery, he commenced in sonorous tones ......

' In a terse but emotional statement, CKSI CEO Mor Carnage said that they would no longer be offering a Burial Policy to the morons that use their products, "this with great reluctance and sorrow,  but it was sheer consumer pressure, and greedy undertakers, that made us rethink our policy in this age of consumer pays twice."  Mor Carnage was seen to obtrusively wipe a tear from the corner of his eye, whilst conveniently on centre camera'.

Bad Egg paused, as he did so, Fotheringay, all brilliantine and starched dickie, materialised at his elbow bearing his trusty salver. "This weeks Media Advertising Contracts my L'ud". Bad Egg took the sealed red  envelope from the salver and bellowed,
"SIT !

Bad Egg continued, "Time to see which Fleet Street Hackery has won the weekly advertising splurge of US$500,000. He slowly withdrew the folded paper from the red envelope, unfolded it, and as he read, he gave a long low whistle, and muttered "well phlog me with the phlogiston theory"

Without more ado, he announced "for the 38th week in a row ..... The 'Womans Week in Perspective' for their award winning article ' Babies Smelly Bum Syndrome, (BSBS) and what to do about it' This highly factual article was compiled from CKSI/Con/inf/woffle leaflet/03A/Bull/Sht/BSBS.

In an attempt to address the stunned silence, Bad Egg harrumphed ! and said " Esteemed members of the press" here he ignored the sniggers and flatulence, and continued,

"The Womans Week in Perspective is a worthy winner. The whole of Womanhood is prostrated at their feet. They alone raised the sales of CSKI toilet cleaners to US$820 billion annually.

They literally transformed the grimy pedestal of mankind, into a gleaming white germ free throne. Whereupon, the Sage leaders of our kind, may ponder our fate, and pronounce their verdict before rising.

They alone boosted the sales of CSKI smell blockers,  errr, I mean deodorants to US$500 billion annually. They alone have ensured that generations of babies have been plastered with CSKI products and given multiple allergies, this creates demand downstream for anti histamines creams, asthma inhalers and baby speed  etc. It also ensures that our Far Eastern sweat shops remain gainfully employed. Supplying  2 cents per hour for 120 hours x 100,000 peasants is a lot of dirty dolluhs to find every week. But the combined force of CSKI and Womans Week in Perspective have proved equal to the task of keeping the peasantry gainfully employed.

This noble organ deserves the pigeon masters beneficence, if only for the fact that the pigeon master holds 99% of the shares of 'Womans Week in Perspective. Beneath the hysterical applause, Bad Egg was heard to mutter, "Blithering Idiots".

Body Image.

Our mental image, of its  physical body, for better or worse, is usually true. Thus at one end of a scale, are those people that threw their hands up in despair, and let it all hang out. Whilst at the other, we have the champion athletic type. Many of whom will tell, of old injuries that flare up and give them pain.If you read the opening satireas representing a ground reality, then you will clearly understand that the image that we have of ourselves has very little to do with us. It is usually imposed upon us via cultural mores, and rammed home by the mass media in all of its many manifestations.

The spin doctors, politicians, business and media hacks present us with the images to conform to. These images may range from the earth child look, to 95 year old's still balling on the kitchen floor. So we choose a costume and get on with it.Those square pegs that did not fit the round holes and vice versa, are usually attended to by the legal fraternity, or the psychiatrist.  We expect the orthodox Doctor to fix our every malaise and totally ignore the fact that Iatrogenic (Physician Caused) disease is the 3rd leading cause of death in the developed nations.

So in other words, if heart disease and cancer does not get you, then the Doctor will.  The root of this misplaced faith in the medical system, is to be found in the fact, that it is easier and more comforting to be told what to do.  In that way we do not have to accept responsibility for ourselves. If one looks at what the Doctors are dying from, then one may see, that they are dying from the same diseases, and at the same rate, that mere mortals do.  So why do we continue to think that they have the answers ?

Eastern Philosophy has never lost sight of the truth. The body is seen as a temple. Within the heart space dwells the deity with its compassion and balance. The temple is kept clean, within and without.  Only natural products are used in the cleansing. Only natural products are using in the feeding.

There are 12 body types, each one is a product of the month of the year and season. Each of those types is further sub dividable by days in the month. Your size and weight is only important, in so far as,
"Are You Healthy" A healthy person is a beautiful person. They glow.

Healthy, or not healthy, may also be seen on a scale. At one end we have the Anorexic and at the other the Obese. Both of those conditions may be corrected by correct nutrition, It can heal many other emotional conditions as well.

Paradoxically the anorexic and the obese are suffering from malnutrition. The market is replete with 'Calorie Controlled Diets' 'Low Fat Diets' 'High Protein Diets' 'Low Carbohydrate Diets'   Ad nauseam.

The Skin:


The skin is the largest organ of the body. It is a masterpiece of creation. In good condition it is incredibly elastic. Consider how many times the skin on every joint must have stretched in one year. The skin suits us to every purpose, it is the original wetsuit. robust yet delicate. It changes to meet many diverse purposes from the soles of our feet to delicate mucous membrane. Its sensory and tactile properties are phenomenal. It will meet mental cues with a blush and exterior cues with goose pimples or sebum and melanin. It also manufactures Vitamin 'D'. The hair and nails are appendages of the skin, and, in the same manner as skin, are an indicator of health or lack of it.

Basic Functions of the Skin:

(A)
It acts as a protection for the body, by use of its own bacteria against foreign invaders.
(B) It assists regulation of body temperature by the evaporative effect of perspiration.
(C) It keeps the hair soft and supple and nourished with sebum.
(D) It protects itself from over exposure to UV rays by the production of melanin.
(E) It stores fat for when the body requires energy.

Glowing with Health.

Diagrams and explanations found in text books of Anatomy and Physiology, leave one with a sense of emptiness for what is missing. This is the sense of wonder at our bodies.

The reality is, that everything is alive, and it is all happening at once, thousands of times per second. We are a shimmering pulsing energy field of flares and nova. Kirlian photography demonstrates the luminescence, that the exchange of energy manifests. When we see a person who is glowing, we may not see the colours, but we can sense that energy. We know that we are in the presence of health, probably at 8 or 9 on our scale of 10.  In this same way we instantly know the vitality rate of those we meet if that person is under par. It is their skin that proclaims  health or lack of it.

The Skin as an Organ of Elimination.

From cradle to grave, 24 hours per day we are burning energy, to power a body function of one kind or another. Burning energy creates waste products that must be removed on a regular basis, in the same way that household waste must be disposed of. If it is not then in both cases disease is the result. The body has 4 main strategies that it employs in returning  oxidation products and other waste to nature for recycling.

(1) Defecation.
(2) Urination.
(3) Respiration.
(4) Transpiration and secretion. (Sweat and sebum)

The skin performs strategy 3 by exchanging gases with the outer and inner environment in the same way as the surface of a leaf. Strategy 4 is the major recycling route. Waste deposits from the lymph, (The liquid transport system for the blood cells) are bought to the outer surface of the body for recycling and are packaged by the sebum for disposal. The sebum is a miracle oil that conditions the skin and hair, and keeps both soft, supple and protected. They glow with health.

The Skin as an Organ of Protection.

In addition to keeping all the organs in one place as Lord Bad Egg would have it. The skin and its secretions are the first line protection for the organism as a whole. I have used the term 'miracle oil' for sebum. The pharmaceutical approach is, 'one oil for everyone'. Natures approach is that everyone has their own special oil. One that is suited exactly, to our own unique metabolism. Made by Nature especially for you.

The ozone layer can be likened to a cosmic ray filter which encloses the Earth as a skin. Animal life on our planet can only exist, within a narrow band of the total Solar emissions. Each race evolved its own specialised type of skin to meet the changing environmental conditions.  Those conditions are determined by the changing gaseous atmosphere, as well as the type of rays accepted from the ozone layer. It is our sebum that determines which type of rays that we receive. This ensures that each one has their place in the Sun. It is the sebum that is our cosmic ray filter.

The skin is constantly being replaced as the trillions of older cells die, form hard layers and then slough off.  Were it not for our sebum, we would move around like a miniature snow storm. Dry or flaky skin and dandruff are symptoms of lack of sebum. Oily skin and black heads are a symptom of excess of sebum. These are internal causes. Causes that need to be attended to before we resort to palliative methods such as the outrageously priced and often useless cosmetic products.

The Care of the Skin.

Sebum may be removed from the skin in a number of ways.

(A) By the use of a flat bladed scraper. This was a preferred method in the bath houses of ancient Rome. It was first preceded by a good steam bath. The scraping was performed by a slave.

(B) We may remove sebum from the skin by the use of soaps and detergents, bubble baths and shower gels. The sebum is emulsified and washed off with the dead skin cells. This type of treatment is harsh to the skin. Soap manufacturers live off the slogan 'Gentle on Your Skin' or, that they contain some sort of magic moisturising ingredient. So they might,  but the job of soap is to emulsify and with emulsification of the sebum, it gets washed off,  the magic ingredient get washed off at the same time. The rule is ..... 'not too often'.

(C) By the use of an absorbent substance such as 'Fullers Earth' or Kaolin in the form of a face pack. This is not only a messy business but it leaves particles in the pores and the sebaceous gland that surrounds a hair shaft.  This then requires further processes to remove them lest they cause problems.

(D)
By use of the cleansing creams, cold creams and the like. They are usually a water in oil emulsion and work by diluting and absorbing the sebum prior to being removed. The treatment is then usually followed by the application of an astringent lotion to tauten the skin and remove the last of the oil and sebum.

Body and Skin Bacteria.

The type of bacteria that live upon the waste products of your skin depends entirely upon what you eat. For example a greasy hamburger will produce a different type of waste to that of an apple.  So in effect what we eat, determines whether we culture vultures or sparrows in bacterial terms.

Our personal bodyguard of bacteria live in tribes and families.  They inhabit the warm moist regions of our bodies. In the event that space traveling foreign bacteria land, they are quickly dealt with by our bodyguard.

However if our inner environment is polluted then the nature of the waste products will change. If our food is changed then the product of that food is changed. Anyone who has ever changed a Diaper (US) or Nappy (UK) will vehemently defend that statement as fact. Simply put, burning wood or coal, has ash as a product, but the composition of the ash is different.  A consequence of inner pollution, is that we host unwanted bacteria, which may prove harmful to us if our immune system is compromised.

If we persist in dousing our bodies, our children, our animals, our homes and our gardens with bactericides we are going to come to a sticky end, because we will have no bacteria to protect our families from the swiftly mutating bacteria, and the rising manifestations of disease that is now evident in all westernised countries.

If you pong and hum, then it is something that you ate, that needs to get out. You pong and hum because you have been using bactericides on your body. No bacteria to eat the piles of waste.  So the waste just rots and pongs.

Our inner environment also hosts bacteria that are absolutely essential to our health. They are not only engaged in protection but also with digestion and the manufacture of a vitamin or a precursor. If we are troubled by "Thrush", it means we are cultivating the wrong type of bacteria. Change the bacterial environment and the bacteria will vacate.. Again it is something you ate. If we use anti-biotics then we must constantly replace the gut bacteria that is being killed by the anti-biotic. That is best done by consuming live organic yogurt.

Sweat.

If we cannot transpire (perspire) we die.  Either from heat exhaustion or blood poisoning. Perspiration not only keeps the body cool by its evaporative effect but it also helps to  transport the metabolic waste to the surface of the skin. The skin is an integral part of our immune system ,and secreted in the sweat is our own personal antibiotic. We may halt the process of perspiration by the use of an astringent, the pores pucker in the same way as the mouth. However the effect is short lasting.  With a fanfare of trumpets enter the Deodorants. Either underarm or between the legs.  The deodorants are designed to block sweat. As a class of product, they caused Carnage, Killem and Slaughter International, a few technical problems. You see the problem was, ..... How to keep a pore closed for more than 10 minutes' .... without resorting to major surgery. 

The Business Solution.

The 3 times winner of the Nobel Prize for Hamburgers.  Sir Iva Shiny Bonehead  PhD BSc, MSc, LLB, Hbt, BEM, was looking at the bullet holes that peppered the wall, of his youngest daughters bedroom.  As head of the CKSI research team, he had spent a fruitless and sweaty week trying to solve the 'keep the pores closed problem'

He absent mindedly  reached for his tube of of Supa Dupa hole filler.  Then lo! the openings bars of 'Thus Spake Zarathustra  blossomed in a crescendo of sound within his grey matter. Sir Iva entered the halls of justice, mythology, science and history.  So it was into hole blocking with a vengeance.

Problem was that a lot of the stuff they popped into the holes wouldn't stay in place. Until someone figured that aluminium salts blocked the holes nicely.  CKSI spent oodles of boodle refuting the scurrilous rumor that Aluminium was linked to Alzheimer's disease. But I cant help wondering, after all, one cant buy an aluminium pan anywhere nowadays. I wonder why not ? Ah no wonder,  world production of aluminium is geared to hole blockers.

A Word from the Hallowed Halls of Science.

Hygiene of the Skin: When Is Clean Too Clean?

By Dr. Elaine Larson.

Even with use of antiseptic preparations, which substantially reduce counts of hand flora, no reductions beyond an equilibrium level are attained. The numbers of organisms spread from the hands of nurses who washed frequently with an antimicrobial soap actually increased after a period of time; this increase is associated with declining skin health. In a recent survey, nurses with damaged hands were twice as likely to be colonized with S. hominis, S. aureus, gram-negative bacteria, enterococci, and Candida spp. and had a greater number of species colonizing the hands.

The trend in both the general public and among health-care professionals toward more frequent washing with detergents, soaps, and antimicrobial ingredients needs careful reassessment in light of the damage done to skin and resultant increased risk for harboring and transmitting infectious agents. More washing and scrubbing are unlikely to be better and may, in fact, be worse. The goal should be to identify skin hygiene practices that provide adequate protection from transmission of infecting agents while minimizing the risk for changing the ecology and health of the skin and increasing resistance in the skin flora.

Soaps and detergents have been described as the most damaging of all substances routinely applied to skin. Anionic and cationic detergents are more harmful than nonionic detergents, and increased concentrations of surfactant result in more rapid, severe damage. Each time the skin is washed, it undergoes profound changes, most of them transient. However, among persons in occupations such as health care in which frequent handwashing is required, long-term changes in the skin can result in chronic damage, irritant contact dermatitis and eczema, and concomitant changes in flora.

Water content, humidity, pH, intracellular lipids, and rates of shedding help retain the protective barrier properties of the skin. When the barrier is compromised (e.g., by hand hygiene practices such as scrubbing), skin dryness, irritation, cracking, and other problems may result. Although the palmar surface of the hand has twice as many cell layers and the cells are up to 30 times thicker than on the rest of the skin, palms are quite permeable to water.

Long-term changes in skin pH associated with handwashing may pose a concern since some of the antibacterial characteristics of skin are associated with its normally acidic pH. In one report, pH increased 0.6 to 1.8 units after handwashing with plain soap for 1 to 2 min and then gradually declined to baseline levels over a period of 45 min to 2 hr (50). Some soaps can be associated with long-standing changes in skin pH, reduction in fatty acids, and subsequent changes in resident flora such as propionibacter.

A myriad of antimicrobial soaps and skin care products have become commercially available. While antimicrobial drug-containing products are superior to plain soaps for reducing both transient pathogens and colonizing flora, widespread use of these agents has raised concerns about the emergence of bacterial strains resistant to antiseptic ingredients such as triclosan. Such resistance has been noted in England and Japan, and molecular mechanisms for the development of resistance have been proposed. Although in some settings exposure to antiseptics has occurred for years without the appearance of resistance, a recent study described mutants of Escherichia coli selected for resistance to one disinfectant that were also multiple-antibiotic resistant. Some evidence indicates that long-term use of topical antimicrobial agents may alter skin flora. The question remains whether antimicrobial soaps provide sufficient benefit in reducing transmission of infection without added risk or cost.

Dr. Elaine Larson
is professor of pharmaceutical and therapeutic research, The School of Nursing, and professor of epidemiology, Mailman School of Public Health, Columbia University. She is editor of the American Journal of Infection Control and former chair of the Healthcare Infection Control Practices Advisory Committee (HICPAC) and member of CDC's National Center for Infectious Diseases Board of Scientific Counselors.

Healthy Food for Healthy Skin.


We pay a heavy price for our many conveniences.  Do you know how much ?

Part 2 in this series, will be :
Food as Medicine in Arcadia. In part 2 we will take a look at food as it relates to health and beauty. We will also take a look at the conditions of 'Anorexia' and that of 'Obesity'. Part 3 and final will deal with Natural Cosmetics and how to make them. 

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